Crack•Stix® is THE ONLY permanent solution for concrete (and blacktop) joint and crack repair. No longer do you need a crew to get professional results. Crack•Stix® carries a lifetime guarantee and meets or exceeds ASTM C920-11 Standard Specification for elastomeric sealants, Type S, T1 for pedestrians and vehicular traffic. It is paintable with Acrylic, latex or epoxy coatings.

Just like it’s blacktop version Crack•Stix® that has been in the marketplace since 1999, the gray version will protect your concrete, beautify it and prevent slip, trip and fall accidents (It will also adhere to faded blacktop for those of you that do not want the contrast of black crack filler to faded blacktop). The product contains NO VOC’s and is very easy to apply: Clean out the crack, pack the Crack•Stix® in the joint or crack and heat it. Traffic Ready in 20 minutes.  

Crack•Stix® comes in two diameters: ½" (125ft) and ¼" (225ft) and is also now available in our NEW 500ft and 1000ft spools (both ½" and ¼") for contractors! Please visit our shop to learn more about the spools (they are only available on THIS website!) as well as our new CSX 1000 PRO Melt Torch (you can click HERE to view the PRO Melt Torch in action!). We ship throughout the US and worldwide.

Please take a look at a recent article from About.com: "Crack Stix®: A Unique Concrete Joint Repair Product" or if you'd like to see a recent video we received from a customer working on his pool deck click here! Gray Crackstix also works as a GREAT binder for concrete pavers / paver blocks.  It sets immediately and isn't weather sensitive (can be done year round - sorry Liquid Nails)

It's EASY: Clean out crack, put in the Crackstix and melt.  Even though we offer both 1/4" and 1/2" remember - you can either stretch them out to make them thinner or double them over to make them wider! For deep cracks just lay in some stone dust, sand or even closed cell backer rod first!

Why is it better than the tube based products? If the product sinks or loses bond you simply re-heat or put more in and re-heat.  There is no need to scrape out.

Our customers include DIY'ers, Sealcoating companies, general contractors, concrete cutting companies, hotels, churches, landlords, Public Works Departments...and the list goes on and on!

Here are some FAQ's:

Q: I am installing Crack-stix in a deep crack/seam in my
asphalt driveway. If I use polymeric sand, do I need to wet it first then allow
it to dry and harden, or do I lay the Crack-stix on top of the sand right out
of the bag?

A: You would need to wet the polymeric sand first, let it
dry and harden before melting the Crack-Stix in place. 

Q: There is a void between concrete and asphalt that requires filling. The temperatures are significantly below freezing, and while this product seems ideal for the task, I'm uncertain about
its application in colder conditions

A: The product can be
applied as long as there is no frost in the ground.  The sidewalls need to be dry so that you can get a proper bond.  If a frost is present, than the heat will create moisture affecting the bond.  You can preheat the area and insure you the surface is warm and fully dry, if so you can apply. 

Q: I am looking at the crack-stix product to fill driveway
joints as well as transitions between my driveway and my vertical step and patio to concrete slab, is this product suited to a horizontal to vertical
concrete joint application?

A: The product can only be applied to horizontal surfaces, not vertical.  The product liquifies as it melts, and takes the shape of the crack

Q: I purchased the gray Crack Stix (Pli Stix)  for concrete a couple of years ago and everything went down great. However, there are a couple of areas where it is separating from the concrete. I recall being able to reheat this to reflow the compound if future cracks develop but when I
tried doing that, it just burns the crack stix and does not melt. Is there a certain method to reheat the crack stix/pli stix?

 A: Mostly likely what is burning is the top layer of the
crack stix that gets dirt and impurities embedded into it. Try wire brushing the top to remove the dirt, etc and then reheating the repair.  Feel free to send a few pictures of the problem persists.